The safer and cheaper alternative is to give your arms a workout and use wet/dry sandpaper (the black stuff at HD) and use it damp on the slab - it will take a few days, but you can start the sanding about 48 - 72 hours after the pour (after removing the forms) - it must be fully set, but you can start hand-sanding while it's still undergoing a wet cure (spray with water and cover with plastic). Honestly, I have not tried this yet, but I too want to do my own concrete counters as well. Read Me First! Because concrete needs at least 7 days for a wet cure and it takes a month for a full cure. Also, your cabinetry has a more formal feel and white knobs won't make it look country. I have no idea about an autobody sander. Did you document it somewhere in a blog I could go read? Anyone done the veining with it? Form shaping is the big thing. I wouldn't go white - they can get grimy. You can probably flip it earlier, but I wouldn't risk it, but 7 days is the absolute MINIMUM for initial cure. having read your post i think you will be able to pull it off. Seriously - you cannot use a regular grinder with a grinding stone - you need a STONE POLISHER - that hooks up to water and does a wet grind / polish. davidro1 is right - polishing will not fix any problems with the forms. Here are some links, maybe they can help you out.~boxerpups, DIY network concrete countershttp://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-build-and-install-a-concrete-countertop/index.html, HGTV concrete countertopshttp://www.hgtv.com/kitchens/express-yourself-with-concrete-countertops/index.html, Here is a link that might be useful: Book on Cocrete counters (borrow from library). By continuing to browse this site or use this app, I agree the Houzz group may use cookies and similar technologies to improve its products and services, serve me relevant content and to personalise my experience. I am considering the same thing only with maple cabinets all around - dark perimeter countertop and lighter granite on island. If you decide on the Calcatta, I'd go with a beige subway tile similar to the picture and, with the Carrera, white. Maybe a little beefier.I saw #9 mason's ladder was recommended, but this was the closest I could lay my hands on in a hurry. I poured on I believe the 4th, and wife is taking off on 18th. Natshultz, I ordered a couple of extra bags, and am waiting for the malamine to arrive so I can do a test pour. Finishing touches were completed Sunday, and I won't been home when the light is good (to take pictures) until this weekend. I'm not sure the technical term (I'm a cabinet guy, not a concrete guy) but it was the diamond shaped stuff that I believe is used on stucco type projects. I like your current knobs - I actually have some that are very similar. Does anyone in the Southern Maine area have a space I can borrow for a couple weeks? What I was going to do was pour them upside down and see if the melamine I'm using as a form will make it smooth enough. With all of that light coming in - lucky you - the Carrera might be too harsh. I'm thinking of doing regular grey countertops with darker veins, trying to emulate Buddy Rhodes but without spending an arm and a leg on his mix. Will a sander auto body folks use work if I'm hosing it while I sand? Make the form perfect and Don't Expect the polishing to change the form / shape that comes out of the form. You can get darker veining by using the concrete stain in a smaller batch of mix and swirling it in the non-stained concrete (while wet). cabinfo. PHEW! Will paint island cabinets grey. Learn more. ;). Looks kind of wet, but not too much that it doesn't look natural. Make sure you have a helper to flip it very gently! Shop QUIKRETE Countertop 80-lb High Strength Concrete Mix in the Concrete Mix department at Lowe's.com. From frame making to pouring to inlays, learn how concrete counters are cast — and how an artisan embellishes them, Give your kitchen unexpected flavor by combining wood, stone, glass and more. Oh yeah, as for finishing the slabs, search the Finished Kitchens Blog under Concrete counters - one person did her own (link to her blog), and when she went to grind the top the grinding stone exploded and destroyed her sink, faucet and went right through the window! I have four LONG blog posts documenting the whole ruckus. You can also consider a less expensive stone, though the one you are considering is really pretty. Are you trying to hide this from your wife? Additionally, you have that like wood piece at the corner. The actual design and reinforcement details must be determined by the end user. Is it too much to mix shiny island granite with honed perimeter granite? I would wait 72 hours to remove the forms (keeping it wet), and at least 2 weeks to flip it (still keeping it wet). I agree with casting them elsewhere! A specially formulated flow-able high strength concrete mix for use in pre-cast and cast-in-place concrete countertops. Photos of 27/28in sink in 30in base cabinet in your kitchen. I'm surprising my wife when she goes to Disneyworld with the kids next month with a concrete countertop. I'm also going to use some vinyl brickmold (908 casing) in the form to give the countertop a nicer edge than I can do with a bead of caulk. The wife loves it, so what more is there to say. If you wrap it in a couple layers of black plastic for the wet cure that should help hold the heat in. But you definitely need diamond polishing pads, and I don't know if they fit that (those are expensive too - made of real diamonds).You should try searching for a stone polisher, they may have cheaper ones now. I've got four guys so far to help me get it from point A to B. I did find a spot in our other lumber yard with power, no water (I didn't need much though) and enough space to do the pour.I've yet to take off the forms. Something like cove or quarter-round will be easier I think - but remember the casting will be in reverse - cove in the mold will form a rounded edge, QR will form a cove edge. Quikrete only needs water to activate the concrete. Hmm, if it's the stuff usually used around windows and doors I cannot picture it as an edge. After the concrete has set you can cut it off at the slab with snips or angle grinder - you'll never see it on the bottom. It will blend better with all of the wood and give your space a softer look. How long will your wife be gone for? I would definitely try a small sample slab before destroying your kitchen, though! BTW: You CAN do this outside. I do like the idea of the walnut island and I don't think it is a problem on the peninsula. I can pour them at the lumber yard (where I work) and hopefully leave them there to cure. 1) you can remove them and float shelves like the one picture (which, BTW, I had posted to another site a couple of days ago for someone wanting an open country kitchen, so I love the look), 2) remove the doors and paint the interior white or beige, depending on your countertop solution and 3) change both solid doors to glass. You can even dump a pile of leaves on top of the plastic at night and cover with a tarp (to keep leaves from blowing away). With proper reinforcement, Countertop Mix can span open areas or be cantilevered. How soon do you think I can flip them over to find out how much polishing I've got to do? Because of this all you need is a few basic tools to mix concrete – you don’t have to mess … Don't forget to reinforce the slab and vibrate it so it doesn't fall apart!

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